Getting set up in Japan will take some time, but we’ve compiled a checklist so that you’ll know what to expect and how to prepare to teach in Japan.

Japanese Traditions
To understand present-day Japan, you must also understand some of its long-held traditions. From sumo wrestlers to Samurai warriors, here are some of Japan’s most cherished customs and art forms.

Tea Ceremonies and Other Traditions
Geishas keep alive Japanese arts like dancing and singing. But, contrary to what some believe, they are not call girls. They are trained performers who entertain guests in tatami-matted rooms at Japanese-style restaurants, and they range in age from 18 to 80 years old. In Kyoto, a geisha in training is called “Maiko.” In Tokyo, they are called “Hangyoku.” The Japanese estimate that are fewer than 10,000 geishas left in Japan, so they are not as common as many Westerners assume.

The Japanese tea ceremony (“cha-no-yu” translates literally to “hot water for tea”) is an ancient tradition that was influenced by Zen Buddhism. Some Japanese devote their lives to studying the intricacies of the tea ceremony, including flower arranging, types of tea, calligraphy, and ceramics. Conversation is minimal during a tea ceremony, as guests soak up the smell of incense, the sounds of the water, and the simple beauty of the surroundings.

Once the traditional clothing of Japan, Kimono are now mainly worn on special occasions such as weddings and tea ceremonies. These T-shaped, straight-lined robes fall to the ankle with full sleeves and a wide belt called an “obi” (usually tied at the back). “ZÙri” or “geta” are the traditional shoes worn with a kimono, along with split-toe socks called “tabi.” Japan has entire courses addressing how to put on and wear kimono, including choosing and tying the “obi,” matching undergarments and accessories to the outfit, and selecting patterns and fabrics according the event and the season. Kimono must be aired out between wearings and at least once per season.

Samurai Warrior and Sumo Wrestler Culture
Samurai refers to the military nobility in pre-industrial Japan (approximately 1600–1870). Though Japan no longer has Samurai, some aspects of the Samurai way of life are still part of present-day Japan. The Samuarai’s strict code of behavior (called “Bushidō;” or “Way of the Warrior,” (similar to chivalry in western cultures) includes seven virtues: rectitude, courage, benevolence, respect, honesty, honor, and loyalty. Often the concepts of filial piety, wisdow, and care for elders are added to this list. Many Japanese still consider these principles an important part of modern life.

Professional sumo wrestling dates back to the Edo period in Japan (roughly 1603 to 1868), but its origins go back even further. Nowadays, Sumo is the traditional national sport of Japan, and wrestlers still toss salt around the ring to purify it (a nod to Sumo’s religious origins). The goal of Sumo wrestling is to push your rival out of the ring (called “dohyo”) or get him to touch a body part other than the soles of his feet to the playing surface. Professional Sumo wrestlers live together in sumo training stables called “heya,” where they carefully follow Japanese traditions, including eating large quantities of rice. Increasing their weight lowers their center of gravity, making it harder to push them out of the ring.

Annual Celebrations and the Arts
Japan celebrates several annual festivals, but perhaps most notable is “Hanami,” which means cherry blossom viewing party. Each spring in April or May as cherry blossoms (or “sakura”) blanket Japan, people bring picnics and flock to see these distinctive pink flowers. Some say that the best place for viewing is Wakayama Castle, but there are many other places throughout the country to appreciate cherry blossoms.

Japanese theatre takes several different forms, including Noh and Kabuki. Noh has been performed since the fourteenth century, incorporating music, drama, and folk traditions. Its pace is slow and stylized, because traditionally Noh actors and musicians did not rehearse for performances together. Rather, they practiced dances and songs independently so that the speed of the performance was set by the interactions of the entire cast.

In contrast to Noh, Kabuki theatre grew out of a desire to surprise audiences with more active stories. In fact, Kabuki actors used real swords until the 1680s! The Tokyo-based theatre troupe Gekidan Shinkansen continues the Kabuki tradition by performing historical roles in a modern and over-the-top manner, which some consider controversial.

“Ukiyo-e” means “pictures of the floating world” and refers to a style of Japanese woodcuts and paintings created between the seventeenth and twentieth centuries. Common motifs in this art form include landscape, historical events, and theatre. Since Ukiyo-e were mass-produced, they were affordable for townsmen who could not pay for original artwork.

Two popular forms of Japanese poetry include haiku and tanka. A Japanese haiku has three parts: part one has five sounds, part two has seven sounds, and part three has five sounds. The English version of haiku counts syllables instead of sounds, so it’s a bit longer than a Japanese haiku. Tanka, a poetic form dating back to ancient times before the haiku, contains five units in this pattern: five, seven, five, followed by seven and seven. When someone sends a haiku to a friend, tradition states that they should answer with a tanka.

Japanese Gardens and Plants
The Japanese are renowned for the beautiful simplicity of their gardens and plants. A Japanese rock garden (also called a Zen garden or “karesansui”) contains sand, gravel, rocks, and sometimes grass or other natural elements. However, plants are an afterthought in a Zen garden, because the focus is on rocks and sand, which is raked into undulating patterns to evoke the ocean. Often the intent is for the viewer to appreciate the garden from a single, seated position.

The Japanese botanical tradition of bonsai (or miniature trees) actually originated in China. The Japanese word “bonsai” translates literally to “potted plant.” Owners shape, water, and repot these small trees in different styles of containers, often bringing elements of nature indoors. The best bonsai plants are drought-resistant to flourish in the man-made surroundings of a home.

Japanese floral arrangements (called “Ikebana”) differ from the large, blossoming arrangements of the west, because Japanese arrangements focus on twigs and/or leaves with a small quantity of flowers filling in. The shape mimics a scalene triangle, where all three sides have different lengths. Some say the three points symbolize heaven, Earth, and man or Sun, Moon, and Earth. This traditional art, which has been in practice for more than 600 years, evolved from the Buddhist ritual of offering flowers to the spirits of the deceased.

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Following Etiquette in Japan
Some practices vary by region, but most of these customs are practiced throughout Japan.

• The ritual of bowing depends on the situation and the relationship between the two people; however, most Japanese will shake hands when they meet a non-Japanese person.
• Japanese restaurants give customers a rolled hand towel (called “oshibori”) before the meal. Use this to wipe your hands, not your face or neck.
• The Japanese consider it impolite to pick out parts of your food (for instance, eating around a certain meat or vegetable) or to leave food on your plate when you are finished.
• You may lift a soup or rice bowl to your mouth so that you don’t spill.
• The Japanese say “itadakimasu” (meaning “I gratefully receive”) before a meal, and “gochisosama (deshita)” (meaning “Thank you for the meal”) after a meal.
• Instead of pouring soy sauce directly on your food, you should pour a small amount into the little dish provided and dip your food. However, it’s considered rude to leave bits of rice floating in the soy sauce. To avoid this, dip a piece of sushi with the wrapper side in the bowl rather than the rice side.
• Try to eat sushi in one bite. Cutting it in two will destroy the beautiful arrangement of the food.
• The Japanese generally do not appreciate potty humor at mealtime, so keep references to South Park or Superbad to a minimum.
• If you’re drinking alcohol, the custom is to serve each other instead of pouring your own beverage. Check your companions’ glasses and refill their drinks as needed.
• Never start drinking until everyone at the table is served and their glasses are raised for a toast, usually the toast is “kampai.”
• When using chopsticks, never pass food from chopsticks to chopsticks or stand them up in a bowl of food.
• After eating, move your dishes back to the same position they were in at the beginning of the meal, including replacing lids on dishes and putting chopsticks in their holder.
• It is impolite to eat, burp, or blow your nose in public.
• When visiting a Japanese home, it is the custom to remove your hat or coat before the host opens the door and to wait until the host has closed the door to put them back on when you leave. You will also need to remove your shoes. Once removed, the toes of the shoes should face the door.
• To avoid showing up empty-handed (or “tebura”), bring a small gift for the host or hostess. The recipient will probably ask you to open the gift, and you should take it out of the bag, place the bag underneath, and present the gift to the recipient with both hands.
• If the host offers a gift in return, it is polite to decline the first time and accept the second time the gift is offered.
• The Japanese have a different way of presenting business cards (called “meishi”) compared to the Western way. You’re expected to present meishi when you meet a new business partner, offering the meishi with both hands and introducing yourself by company, position, and name. When receiving meishi, hold the card by the bottom two corners to avoid covering the name or other information. Never fold the card, write on it, or stuff it in your pocket, as these are signs of disrespect in Japan.

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Understanding Japanese Sayings
Just as American and Canadian sayings don’t always translate literally (for instance “hang out” or “blow off”), the Japanese have some sayings that confuse outsiders. In many cases, the Japanese tendency to avoid conflict at all costs obscures the meaning of what they are saying. Instead of being direct and saying “no” outright, they will dance around a request or question to maintain a sense of harmony and goodwill. You can always ask if something is unclear, but here are a few things keep in mind:

• Romance languages like English typically use a subject-verb-object construction, but the Japanese language uses subject-object-verb. You’ll get used to this the more you hear it.
• “Let’s have dinner sometime.” The person is not actually inviting you for a friendly dinner or date. It actually means, “I hope we get along well together.”
• “That's a little difficult.” (Sore wa chotto muzukashii.) This a diplomatic way of saying “No way!”
• “I'll think about it.” (Kangaete okimasu.) Don’t hold your breath, as this is another way of saying no.

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Applying for your Alien Registration Card (ARC)
Japanese law requires foreign residents to carry a valid Alien Registration Card (ARC) at all times, even on a quick trip to the store or on a lunch break. The police conduct random searches from time to time, so make sure you bring along your ARC whenever you leave your apartment. An ARC is also required when you open a bank account, apply for a cell phone, or need official identification. You must register for your ARC at your local town or city office within the first 90 days of arriving in Japan. You will need to bring your passport and two photographs when you apply. You must also keep the details of your card current, including your name, address, and passport number.

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Banking/Sending Money Home
While are you are getting settled in Japan and before you open a bank account, the following financial resources will be helpful for managing your money (we recommend that you carry Japanese yen, too):

Post Offices, Banks & Agencies
You can exchange foreign currency and traveler’s checks at banks and agencies displaying a sign in English “Authorized Money Exchange.” You can also cash and buy traveler’s checks in U.S., Canadian, Australian, Swiss, British, and Euro currencies at the post office, although English language support is not always available.

International ATMs
Most ATMs at major banks will not accept international bank cards; however, many post office ATMs display a “Need Cash?” sign with symbols for international networks such as Plus and Visa. You can use these cards to withdraw cash from an account in your home country. Directions are available in English and Japanese.

International Credit Cards
Many larger businesses, but not all, accept major international credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard. Many of these cards can also be used at post office ATMs and credit ATMs. But be sure to notify your credit card company that you will be going to Japan. They may freeze your card if they think someone else is making fraudulent charges in your name, so let them know before you leave. Some credit cards may not work overseas, so this is another question to ask before you leave.

Once you have your Alien Registration Card (ARC), you will be able to set up a Japanese bank account. Savings accounts are called “futsu koza” in Japanese. You can automatically pay your bills through an automated payment, but you will need to bring a copy of your most recent bills to the bank to set this up. Keep in mind that most ATMs in Japan are not available 24 hours a day. The ones that are may charge you an extra fee. Banks are generally open 9:00 am to 3:00 pm, Monday through Friday.

The cheapest way to send money back to your home country is through an international postal money order (called a “kokusai yubin kawase”). You can buy a money order at a post office and mail it to the recipient. Other options include wiring money from a bank or post office. This is faster, but fees range from 1,000 to 2,5000 yen.

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Money/Cost of Living
You should plan to arrive with enough cash to last until your first paycheck, and budget appropriately for the date and amount of your first salary. We recommend carrying some cash instead of relying on traveler’s checks. You should convert some of your home country’s currency to Japanese yen before you leave the airport. Exchange rates do not vary significantly between banks and exchange counters.

For those who teach English abroad, living in major Japanese cities like Tokyo can be expensive, but with careful budgeting, you can have extra money for savings at the end of the month. If you choose to live outside of the city or in a more rural area, your expenses will be lower. Frugal Japan (www.frugaljapan.com) has some tips on saving money in Japan, and they also offer a Yahoo! listserve (http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/frugaljapan/) for exchanging ideas on the topic.

As of mid-May, 2008, the exchange rate was 1 United States dollar (USD) to about 104 Japanese yen (JY). Yahoo currency convertor (http://finance.yahoo.com/currency)

Here are the approximate costs of items purchased in Tokyo (again, prices are generally lower outside of the city):

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Cable TV
Cable and Satellite TV are widely available across Japan with varying prices and packages. You can also bundle together your TV, phone, and Internet together. Japan’s national broadcaster, NHK, requires all households with a television to pay subscription fees. Fees for NHK are 2,790 yen every two months or less if paid by bank transfer or in a lump sum in advance. NHK programming includes news, emergency reporting, educational programming, weather, sports, performing arts, and documentaries.

You can also watch American or Canadian cable TV remotely using a device called a slingbox (http://www.slingmedia.com/). You’ll need a friend or relative back home who is willing to hook up your slingbox to their cable line and broadband Internet connection. This should not slow down your friend’s Internet connection, but of course, primetime TV in the U.S. or Canada coincides with Japan’s morning hours because of the time difference.

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Phone Service
Most English teachers in Japan prefer a cell phone to a landline phone. Online train timetables, route planning, email, and map services come standard on most models. The Japanese mobile network uses PDC (Personal Digital Cellular System) technology, which is not compatible with mobile services like GSM.

Most cell phone providers require you to show your Alien Registration Card, but some will accept a combination of the certificate of alien registration, passport, and credit card. Generally you will need to provide a Japanese bank account number to set up a monthly direct debit. If you’re still waiting on this information, then some providers will send the bill to your home or allow you to pay by credit card (which must be under your name, not your parents). For calling internationally, it is often more economical to purchase an international phone card or use Skype, which allows you to send and receive phone calls online.

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Taxes
Your tax situation in Japan will depend on your home country and your length of stay. If you’re getting taxes deducted automatically, you’ll want to get a breakdown of tax payments (called “kyuryo shotoku no gensen choshu hyo”) from your contracting organization. If you’re exempt from paying taxes in Japan, then the statement is called “kyuyo shiharai hokokusho.”

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Transportation
Japan has one of the most efficient transportation systems in the world.

Subways
A dense network of trains covers large cities like Tokyo and Asaka. Two different companies (Toei Subways and Tokyo Metro) operate the subway network in Tokyo, offering eight different subway lines. The lines cover central Tokyo, especially the area inside Yamanote circle and around Shitamachi and Ginza. Osaka also has an extensive subway system operated by the Osaka Municipal Subway. Eight different lines cover greater Osaka. If you don’t need to ride the subway during weekday rush hour, it’s best to stay away. Subways get extremely crowded, especially in Tokyo.

Buses
Japan has both local buses and highway buses. Buses are secondary to the subways in larger cities like Tokyo and Osaka, but in places like Kyoto, they are the primary way to get around. Often the bus signs are written in Japanese, and ticketing systems vary depending on the company (Kyoto has a flat fare for bus riders).

In general, you enter the bus through the back door (unless the front door is the only entrance) and pick up a ticket from a small machine as you enter. As your stop approaches, press one of the buttons on the wall to let the driver know that you need to get off. Most buses have change machines if you don’t have the exact fare. Leave your ticket and your fare in the fare box next to the driver before you exit.

Trains
Japan’s four major islands are connected by trains, including night trains and bullet trains (a network of high-speed railway lines called “Shinkansen”). Japan Railways (JR) operates most of these trains. Private railway companies operate the other trains and cover most of the country. If you plan to stay in one region, a regional rail pass might be ais a better good option

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Packing
We’ve compiled a partial list of the items to bring with you to Japan. Remember that the country uses a different type of power (Japan is on the 100 volt system), so you will need to purchase a converter or buy electronics after you arrive. Because Japan has electronics available for very competitive prices, we recommend that you buy these items in Japan, rather than shipping your stereo or other gadgets.

Clothing
Ask your employer about their dress code so you can pack accordingly. Also, clothing tends to run a bit smaller in Japan. An American size small is a medium in Japan, medium is large, and so on. If you are large by American or Canadian standards, it will be hard for you to buy clothes in Japan. Because you’ll need to slip off your shoes before entering a home, slip-on shoes (ballet flats for women or loafers for men) make more sense than shoes that lace up.

Medication
If you are on any prescription medication, including birth control, it’s best to bring it with you (and include at least a week’s supply in your carry-on in case your checked luggage is delayed). You’ll be able to get pain relievers or cold medicine, but if you’re choosy about the brand, you should bring those, too.

Personal Items
It’s hard to find quality deodorant in Japan, so bring a year’s supply. Many western brands, such as Clinique and Pantene, are available in Japan, but if you absolutely cannot live without a certain type of moisturizer or lipstick, it’s best to bring it with you.

Photocopies of Important Documents
If your passport or photo ID gets lost or stolen, it will help to have photocopies to show at the Embassy.

Pictures from Home
Photos will ease homesickness and fascinate your new students, who will no doubt be curious about your family and home country.

An Open Mind
If nothing else, leave your expectations at home. You are about to teach English in Japan and experience a country that is very different from your own, so you’ll need to be willing to adapt.

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